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Building In The Winter

Winter Construction

 

Snow, snow and more snow. Why does it always seem to happen once you start a building project? While building in the winter can have the obvious draw-backs, there are some positive things from winter construction.

 

The first you need to accomplish is getting the foundation in when you have good weather. That is the most important part of winter building. Concrete really needs warmer temps in order to cure properly. I once started a house build that we poured the foundation on in 50 degree weather and the next two days the temps plunged to below zero with wind chills of -20 degrees!! The foundation had chloride added so it didn't freeze, but I must tell you the foundation walls didn't start to properly cure until the heat was turned on in the house. Moisture was then able to dissapate from the concrete.

 

So let's look at some of the positives of winter building.

  • Contractors are generally less busy and can spend more time with you and making sure your project is on the fast track
  • Cold temperature means dry air, normally when it rains everything gets soaked. When it snows, covers floors with tarps or removal of the snow can actually leave you with a dryer surface.
  • Finishing drywall can actually dry faster in cold dry air vs. warm humid air, open the windows and exchange the moisture filled house with the outside cold dry air. This will aid in drying times of drywall mudd.
  • No sunburns, ok that maybe a negative...

 

The real key to building in bad weather is to use a builder that's got the equipment and experience to handle extreme conditions.Things like portable heaters, snow plows, heat blankets and tarps.

 

Just get started on the job and make quick progress, working long days if necessary (although daylight is normall shortened), until the framing of the building is up and weather tight. It's not as hard as you might think and once your shelled in you have a place to work all winter!

Posted by info@ezhangdoor.com at 12:00 AM | 0 comments

Preparing For Building Inspections

 

 

Wall Framing

 

Once you have all the pre-required permits, you will need to apply for a building permit. You will need copies of all the required pre-permits and a copy of your building plans to submit to the building department. The cost of the permit is normally determined by the cost of the project. The bigger the project the higher the cost. Once submitted the building department will review your file and verify you have all required permits and drawings. The building inspector will perform what is called a plan review of your plans,checking for code compliance and safety items. If your plans are complete and code compliant you would then be issued a building permit for your project.

 

Inspections are broken down into segments. The building inspector wants to see your work before too much is completed and changes can be made without too much hassle. Inspections and the number of inspections can vary greatly by jurisdiction. Be sure to get the list of required inspections from your building department.

 

Let just touch on a few of the big inspections:

  1. Footing/ foundation- this inspection in done after your footing are dug and form boards are in place and prior to pouring concrete.
  2. Rough-inspection is completed after the floor, wall and roof framing is completed. You will also need to have all of your rough mechanical, plumbing and electrical installed and inspected prior to scheduling your rough building inspection.
  3. Final- this one is key. Final means final. Nothing will tick off a building inspector more than asking for a final inspection before the project is complete. This means paint, doors installed and trim applied, flooring siding and everything else in the house.

There you have it. The process is quite orderly and simple if you know the proper steps. Work with your local building department and inspector for a smooth running and code compliant project.

Posted by info@ezhangdoor.com at 11:07 AM | 0 comments

Vinyl Replacement Windows

When deciding about replacing your windows, you need to give a couple things consideration. The first being, what shape are your existing frames in? Are they rotten, square, plumb and level?

 

If they are in good shape, you can consider a vinyl replacement window, sometimes called a pocket window. This will allow you to leave the interior trim and exterior siding intact. Unlike a new window, you are only removing the old sashes and inserting a replacement with sashes and a new jamb for the sashes to ride in.

 

Attach your new pocket window to the old jambs with screws through the new jambs and into the old. Use window expansion foam for any large cracks and caulk both the interior and exterior. Be prepared to add new stops and add some fresh paint for a quality looking job.

 

Often times if you plan ahead, you can get new windows made to fit your old window sizes. You will need to measure carefully so the new replacement fits perfectly. Your new window will need to be slightly undersized to allow room for making small adjustments.

 

A slight draw-back to replacement windows are, you normally end up with a slightly smaller glass size. Be careful if you are replacing a bedroom window that requires egress. Check to verify you're not getting smaller than the building code requires.

 

Replacement Window

Posted by info@ezhangdoor.com at 12:16 PM | 0 comments

Can A Door Swing Over Stairs?

Doors swinging over stairs create a hazard and they are a building code violation. An un-expecting person climbing the stairs can be knocked backwards leading to a very dangerous fall. Doors are allowed to swing in the direction of stairs with a proper landing at the top and bottom. Note the building code section below for clarification.

 

From the 2006 IRC.

- R311.4.3 Landings at doors.
There shall be a floor or landing on each side of each exterior door. The floor or landing at the exterior door shall not be more than 1.5 inches (38 mm) lower than the top of the threshold. The landing shall be permitted to have a slope not to exceed 0.25 unit vertical in 12 units horizontal (2-percent).

- - Exceptions:

- - - 1. Where a stairway of two or fewer risers is located on the exterior side of a door, other than the required exit door, a landing is not required for the exterior side of the door provided the door, other than an exterior storm or screen door does not swing over the stairway.
- - - 2. The exterior landing at an exterior doorway shall not be more than 73/4 inches (196 mm) below the top of the threshold, provided the door, other than an exterior storm or screen door does not swing over the landing.
- - - 3. The height of floors at exterior doors other than the exit door required by Section R311.4.1 shall not be more than 73/4 inches (186 mm) lower than the top of the threshold.
- - The width of each landing shall not be less than the door served. Every landing shall have a minimum dimension of 36 inches (914 mm) measured in the direction of travel.



Doors Swinging Away From Stairs



Posted by info@ezhangdoor.com at 10:08 PM | 0 comments

What Is An Egress Window?

What is does it mean when you hear this; "You'll need an egress window in the basement or in the bedroom". An Egress window is a regular window, it just needs to have certain opening requirements.

 So what are those special measurements you need? Keep these numbers in mind when you are required to have means of egress through a window.

  • Height off floor to sill opening = 44 inches
  • Minimum width clear opening = 20 inches
  • Minimum opening height = 24 inches
  • Total area square inches = 5.7 sq. ft.

Now you have to be aware that a window with 20 inches width and 24 inches inches height alone will not meet the minimum 5.7 sq. ft. size. Those two dimensions are just that, minimum openings.

 

Egress window and well

Posted by info@ezhangdoor.com at 2:26 PM | 0 comments

Quick Tip For Framing Door Openings

When building walls, a typical way to frame them is when they are laying down. A good tip is to NOT cut out the bottom plate where the door will be until all the framing is completed. This will aid in keeping the bottom of the walls in the same plane or even with each other leading to a smoother door installation and straight looking walls.

 

                              *Cut out plate after wall is raised and secured to the floor

Posted by info@ezhangdoor.com at 2:25 PM | 1 comments

Shimming A Door

Wondering how to shim a door? Using shims or wedges is a centuries old method that does work. The problem is, it's a tough job to get correct the first time without lots of practice or having someone walk you through the process.

 

Using the EZ-Hang Bracket System is a much simplier method and will increase the accuracy and speed of even the best shimmers. Here are some tips that will help for those of you that still want to shim your doors.

 Remove Excess Shims

Posted by info@ezhangdoor.com at 9:53 AM | 0 comments

Width Of An Exit Door

Often times people are surprised to find out building code normally only requires one exit door in a residential home. So what size does that door need to be? A 36" wide side hinged entry door meets that standard building code. 

 

Entry door

Posted by info@ezhangdoor.com at 5:29 PM | 0 comments

What Is Height Of A Deck Before It Needs A Railing?

Often times you want a nice deck without the obstructing view of a railing. So how high can your deck be off the ground before building code requires a guard railing. Surprisingly most building codes allow a height of 30 inches off grade before the guard rail requirements kick-in.

 

This doesn't mean you can't have a deck under 30 inches and have a railing on it. It just means you are not required to put one unless it's higher than 30" from the grade around it.

 

I have also heard of Insurance companies checking homes they have insured for this building code requirement. So be aware, if you have a deck over that 30 inches, it may be a good idea to look at installing a railing system for safety.

 

Deck Railing Height

 

Posted by info@ezhangdoor.com at 12:40 PM | 0 comments

Securing A Heavy Or Solid Core Door

Heavy doors require a little extra attention when installing them. Nothing really difficult,  just an added step.

 

Remove the center screw from the top hinge and replace it with a 2-1/2" screw into the wall stud.  This will help secure the weight your solid core door over the long-haul. This can be done all hinge three hinges if desired, however, the top hinge is holding most of the heavy doors weight.

Long Screw For Heavy Doors

Posted by info@ezhangdoor.com at 5:47 PM | 0 comments

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